Sweating beneath the incandescent glare, Oyster Omelette Lee pours egg batter onto his massive grill. Beef Noodle Chang scolds her regulars for never trying her other dishes. Stinky Tofu Hsieh surveys the line stretching from his stall, wondering why it’s not longer. Milk Tea Chou casts an anxious glance at her dwindling supply of grass jelly. Duck Neck Tsai clacks his tongs slowly – he’s 80 years old, he won’t be hurried, and the customers can take it or leave it. These are the people Taipei hunts for on a Saturday night.
photos by Iain Shaw & Badr Benjelloun